Without the neutral colors, sleek design and healthy food, Start could be a Raising Cane's, or (gasp!) even an Arby's. Diners order and pay at a register, grab drinks, and sit to wait for their names to be called. The open kitchen delivers food in a fast food-style, with labeled stainless steel chutes for hamburgers, salads and other menu items. There's even a drive through. But that's where the similarities to all other fast food restaurants end.
The concept is simple: wholesome food served in fast food-style. What that means to owners Mike and Erin McKool, is a lot of lists. Like lists of DOs and lists of DON'Ts. They hold the "bad" stuff, like hormones, antibiotics, nitrates, and upon request, gluten. And on the DOs list: whole-wheat flour, organic, fair-trade, shade-grown, local and all those other "good" things.
So what does all-good, no-bad food taste like? Like homemade, if you had the time, the energy, the desire and the quality ingredients. On opening night we tried the Sweet Potato Tots (more like baked sweet potato bites, just so you're not surprised by the texture), the chicken empanada (small, but flaky and flavorful), the Better Burger (grain fed and free range, of course), a Caesar salad (complete with freshly grated parmesan), and a frozen yogurt cookie sandwich (by far my favorite).
Starters and sides are all under $4, most entrées are around $7 and desserts are around $3. And unlike every other quick service spot, you won't find Diet Coke, Mountain Dew and Dr. Pepper at Start. But look for freshly brewed teas with packets of Stevia sweetener on hand, coconut water, Izze sparkling fruit sodas and juice pressed while you wait.
A burger, tots, empanada, cilantro cream...and a cookie sandwich.Okay, I lied. There's one more echo from the fast food world at Start. Breakfast is served every day until a hard stop at 11:00 a.m. The menu looks intriguing, with options that are all around $4. I'll be back to try an Organic Turkey Bacon Egg n' Cheddar Sandwich on a Wheat English Muffin. Oh, and most likely ALL of the baked items like Banana Bread Mini Loaves and some Carrot Cake Mini Muffins. All are $2.50. I wonder if they would consider a cookie sandwich breakfast...
White hot restaurant interior design company Plan B Group created the recycled and sustainable materials-focused space at Start. Clean with a sort of "soft organic" vibe, bird and tree wall decals wind their way above diners all the way up to the ceiling. Four geometric wooden light fixtures bisect the dining room, which is filled with wooden and recycled furniture and accents. The crowd was a mix of friends, couples and a lot of families, especially really young kids.
Speaking of which, Start has options like Chicken Bites, PB & Banana and Grilled Cheese for the little ones. There's no happy meal, but it should make you feel better about what you're feeding your kids. Will you crave the food at Start like you crave an evil Chick-fil-A chicken nugget? Maybe not. But it's a start, and a big step in the right direction.
Start is located at 4814 Greenville between University and Lovers Lane.
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Bonus points for killer typographyLast night was the première of Boulevardier, the new French bistro from Veritas owners Brooks and Bradley Anderson, chef Randall Copeland and chef Nathan Tate. The scene was set with French linens, crisp white walls and rich woods. The players were all dressed in tailored, plaid button-downs and freshly pressed aprons. 
Vodka, St. Germain, ZIP code honey, lemon and bubblesA lengthy wine list and curated list of simple cocktails act as curtain call. Wines by the glass range from $7-$18, and cocktails, like the Belle Femme I tried, are all around $10. The menu is decidedly French, featuring classic dishes like Bouillabaisse, Cassoulet, Croque Monsieur and French Onion Soupe. But those are just the tip of the menu iceberg, or glaçon, if you will. 
Burrata that gives Carbone's a run for its moneyWe began with a salad starring creamy burrata and supported by slices of grilled baguette, fresh pesto, pistou, balsamic vinegar, olive oil, sel gris, arugula and bright red Lemley's tomatoes ($10). A selection of raw items like oysters and shrimp, plus an impressive showing of house-made charcuterie all make for a compelling opening act. But you might not even need to choose if you go for The Big Board ($22), a combination of just about everything on the charcuterie section. 
Beef tongue pastrami (center stage) and Bay of Fundy Gravlax (in back)But last night we chose the Bay of Fundy Gravlax with celery root remoulade, pickled mustard seeds and dill crème fraiche; and the Beef Tongue Pastrami, with juniper-Riesling sauerkraut and Russian dressing. Time for act two.
Boulevardier offers a lot to choose from as far as mains, like classic Steak Frites, Chicken Boulevardier and even chef Tate's namesake burger. Scene-stealing Gnocchi à la Parisienne ($16) had the potential to be heavy, but is full of crisp, bright green vegetables and enough lemon to make it light enough for a summer meal. Dark brown in color, each pillow of dough was like a mini croquette. Fancy Pants Meatless Monday, anyone?
At this point in your meal you might be thinking it's time for a curtain call, but stick it out because the dessert menu is full of stars. A Dark Chocolate Tart ($8) sits in a pool of salted caramel, its intense richness cut by a topping of Chantilly cream. And scene, indeed.